Actually, when I took this photo yesterday mid afternoon up on the Parapet trail between the Madison Gulf Trail and Osgood trail below Mount Madison, it was clearer than during other parts of the day. Still, you can barely make out Compa as she picks her way through the rocks and you can sort of see one of the rock cairns that directs you where to go when you're in the clouds as we were yesterday.
Compa and I are just back after three days/ nights in the New Hampshire White Mountains. Here's the Cliff Notes summary — more will come later but it's a Saturday night and work day tomorrow.
Get your maps out!
Wednesday we walked halfway into the Hancocks (off the Kankamagus Highway). On Thursday we went up the Hancock loop and then walked out, a seven some-odd mile loop, drove to the entrance to the Great Gulf trail (off 16 in Pinkham Notch) and walked three miles in to a great campsite on a bluff between two loud streams (in the Great Gulf Wilderness). Oh, I should say that we walked in pouring rain, watching and hearing lightning and thunder on the high peaks, but we were safe in the valley. The rain eased up long enough for us to set up the tent and make dinner, but then started to mist overnight.
The next day we had thought of going up to Mount Adams so I could claim having done all the peaks over 5000 feet. However, it was so misty we couldn't see anything. We didn't have the AMC guidebook with us, just some maps and directions for other ways up, so didn't really know what we were getting into... we decided to go up the Madison Gulf trail, thinking it would be easier in the bad weather with wet rocks than Six Husbands or Spinx, but it is apparently one of the hardest trails anywhere. No kidding. Once you get to the headwall it is more than four-wheel drive, it is rock climbing straight on up which requires hauling your legs higher than your head at times, it seems, and even has what they call a chimney. It took us over three hours to make it to the Madison Hut and as we kept going up the headwall, I kept saying: I don't want to go down this. Apparently, the guide books say you shouldn't either. A group of college kids we met before the headwall (which they had just come down with full packs, oy) said it was 'sketchy.' Uhuh.
We stopped for lunch (homemade PB&J that we'd made before leaving) at the Madison Hut. We hung out there for a half hour or so. The weather was so crummy that we decided not to bother with Adams. Instead, we took the Parapet trail (not exactly fast either) and came back down Osgood trail and across on the Osgood Connector to the intersection of Great Gulf, and Madison, a total of almost eight miles. I can't remember the last time I was so thoroughly soaked and couldn't care about it any more.
Today when we got up, the front had finally come through (it was supposed to on Wednesday morning but stalled) and promised to be a gorgeous day. We hung everything out to dry and finally packed up at noon and walked out. It was hard knowing that folks would have a nice, but chilly day and evening.
Oh well, it was a true adventure.
[Update] From AMC guide:
Caution: The section of this trail on the headwall of Madison Gulf is one of the most difficult in the White Mountains, going over several ledge outcrops, bouldery areas, and a chimney with loose rock. The steep slabs may be slippery when wet, and several ledges require scrambling and the use of handholds—hikers with short arms may have a particular problem reaching the handholds. Stream crossings may be very difficult in wet weather. The trail is not recommended for the descent, for hikers with heavy packs, or in wet weather. Allow extra time, and do not start up the headwall late in the day. The ascent of the headwall may require several hours more than the estimated time; parties frequently fail to reach the hut before dark because of slowness on the headwall.
Here the Great Gulf Trail continues straight ahead, leading to NH 16 or (via the Osgood Cutoff) to the Osgood Trail for Mt. Madison and Madison Hut. The Madison Gulf Trail turns left up the narrow ridge and continues between the two streams until it enters its former route near the bank of Parapet Brook. It crosses one channel of the divided brook, runs between the two, then crosses the other to the northeast bank. It follows the brook bank for a little way; then it turns right, away from the brook, then turns left and ascends along the valley wall at a moderate grade, coming back to the brook at the mouth of the branch stream from Osgood Ridge. From here, it follows Parapet Brook rather closely, and crosses the brook for the first of three times in less than 0.5 mi., ascending to the lower floor of the gulf where it reaches Sylvan Cascade, a fine waterfall. The Madison Gulf Trail then ascends to the upper floor of the gulf, where it crosses numerous small brooks. From the floor, it rises gradually to Mossy Slide at the foot of the headwall, then ascends very rapidly alongside a stream, which becomes partly hidden among the rocks as the trail rises. The trail then reaches the headwall of the gulf and climbs very steeply, with some difficult scrambles on the ledges. As it emerges on the rocks at treeline, it bears right and the grade moderates, and soon it ends at the Parapet Trail. For the Parapet and Madison Hut, turn left; for the Osgood Trail via the Parapet Trail, turn right.
1 comment:
You certainly would feel out of place around here. I envy the mountains. It has been years since I put on the boots, wrapped up the Stephenson's tent and ventured out to Allegheny National Forest which is nothing like your mountains. All my current backpack knows is music.
We often camped and hiked in light rain. The mud isn't fun and rocks can be slippery. I'm happy you had no incidents and returned home safely.
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